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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Elementary Sloyd 



AND 



Whittling 

TVit/j Draichigs and Working Directions 

BT 

Gustaf Larsson 

Principal of the Sloyd Trai?n?ig School, Boston y Massachusetts 




SILVER, BURDETT AND COMPANY 
NEW YORK BOSTON CHICAGO 



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LIBRARY of CONGRESS 

Two Copies ftectived 

SEP 21 1906 

p Cew"**'* Entry ^ 

CLASS /^ XXC, N». 

COPY 8. 



Copyright, 1906, by 
SILVER, BURDETT AND COMPANY 



/ _ 3 5v Jf 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction 1 

Woods or Timber 5 

Tools and Implements for Elementary Sloyd (Illustrated) 12 

List of Tools and Materials 17 

Working Directions for Elementary Sloyd (Illustrated) 37 

Staining and Polishing (55 

Whittlin(; * G9 

General Directions 70 

Working Directions for \Vhittlin(i (Illustrated) 72 

Outfit of Tools and Mateklvls (Illustrated) 93 

Spontaneous Creations by Children under Twelve Years of Age 

(Illustrated) , 96 



INTRODUCTION 

Sloyd is tool work so arranged and employed as to stimulate and 
promote vigorous, intelligent self-activity for a purpose which, the 
worker recognizes as good. By '^Elementary Sloyd" is meant bench 
work in wood, in two dimensions adapted to children from eight to 
twelve years of age. In 1889 I published a series of working drawings 
for '^ Preliminary Sloyd" with a teachers' '^ Sloyd Manual of AYorking 
Directions. " The changes and improvements made since that time are 
the results gained from the exi)erience of many teachers, and are embod- 
ied in the course here outlined. 

It is thought by some that children under twelve years of age have 
not the requisite strength and maturity to handle ordinary wood-working 
tools, but, owing to the recognized necessity of providing for the vigor- 
ous muscular activity of younger children, this course is suggested. 

I have endeavored to select larger objects than those commonly 
given children at this age, so that they may obtain more jjhysical exer- 
cise, and, although a good finish should be insisted u^^on, less accuracy 
is required. The objects are chosen with special reference to the inter- 
ests of a, child at this age, and are different from those which have been 
suggested for the three upj)er grammar grades. This course may 
include toys and games which appeal to young children. 

Many of the objects in this course have been evolved after a careful 
study of a large variety of children's original work in wood. 

Whether we should always allow children to select what they may 
choose to make, or whether some considerarion of logical sequence or 
graded effort should underlie the work, can best be decided by visiting 
schools and carefully observing classes engaged in actual work under 



[11 



IXTBODUCTION 



ditfereiit coiulitious. The point is, I beliex c, that we shoukl hiid out 
whether or not what tlie clrikl woiikl lil'e to do harmonizes with the 
educational idea of what lie had Ix'st do. For mj^self, T believe fully in 
llie \alu(^ of spontaneity in educational work. I also believe that spon- 
taneity may be guided, greatly to the advantage of the child. 

The many different kinds of handiwork now exi)erimeuted with in 
the lower grades of our public schools are, without doubt, of much value 
when giAen by a teacher thoroughly competent and interested in his 
work, and they also have the advantage of being taught in the regular 
schoolroom, by the regular grade teacher, and with inexpensive outfit. 
8uch work, howevei', can never take the place of sloyd, which, with its 
large variety of tools and exercises, provides for more free and vigorous 
muscular movements and offers a more stimulating motive to the worker 
in the objects which he makes. 

"Elementary Sloyd" is suggested for use in the fifth and sixth gram- 
mar grades, and also for any special classes, public or priA^ate, given 
at home clubs, settlements, summer schools, etc. It requires a sj)ecial 
room equipped with suitable benches and tools. The number of chil- 
di-en in the class should be limited to twenty. 

The teacher should have training and experience, as well as a good 
knowledge of the correct use and care of tools and of the best methods 
of performing the various exercises. 

The drawings, models, tools, and material are simpler than those used 
in the upper grades. Generally, only one view is given in the drawing, 
and only the necessary facts for the construction shown. The direc- 
tions are brief, being intended merely as hints for methods of i^ro- 
cedure. 

While these drawings and directions are intended primarily for the 
use of the teacher, the children may work from them directly, after they 
have gained some facility in the use of tools and in the ability to read 



INTRODUCTION 



dniwiiigs. It should hv imderstood, however, that no directions or 
drawings can take the i)lace of the teacher. 

In order to give the children a clear idea of what they are to do, the 
teacher should first present the model, and, by questions and explana- 
tions, lead the children to a correct understanding of both the model 
and its use. Enlarged blackboard drawings should be made for the 
children to read, and they may also be taught to make sketches and 
simi)le working drawings. 

As a general rule, the method of procedure should be : 
First : From the model. 
Second: From model and d: awing. 
Third: From drawing alone. 

Fourth : From the children's own suggestions guided by the 
teacher. 

Correct working positions should be insisted upon ; self-reliance and 
generosity should be fostered, and it must be remembered that the fin- 
ished product should represent the child's own effort. 

There is often a vague idea as to what is meant by the educational 
value of manual training. I would suggest, to make this subject clear, 
that, while the children are at work, the following questions should be 
satisfactorily answered by supervisors, teachers, or visitors : 

First. Are the child's positions and movements while working such 
as are likely to be injurious or beneficial to his physical developments 

Second. Is he doing his own thinking, unprompted and uninter- 
rupted by the teacher ? 

Third. Is his work so carried on that self-respect is developed rather 
than vanity ! 

Fourth. Is he learning to recognize and to love excellence of work- 
manship, as shown by becoming more and more critical of himself and 
his own achievements S 



[31 



INTBODUCTION 



Fifth. Is he learning to recognize good form and to avoid unsuitable 
decoration % 

Sixth. Is he getting some training in good citizenshii) by working 
for others'? 

Seventh. Does the finished product represent the child's own effort, 
and is the workmanship good ; or was the problem too difficult ? 

Although the models and tl^e directions here outlined have been 
planned with great care, it must be understood that they are not recom- 
mended as a fixed and unalterable plan of work. Teachers should 
always change the methods and models in the interest of general 
imi^rovement or adapt them for special needs. 

It is hoped that the suggestions here given may prove of service to 
teachers as well as to pupils, and meet the demand of a genuine need. 



[^] 



WOOD OR TIMBER 

A variety of native woods suited to the character of the objects 
made should be selected. Wood is conceded to be superior to anj^ other 
manual- training material. It has, so to speak, more life than such 
materials as clay, paper, or metal. The material itself excites an in- 
terest in the children. The structure or grain, as well as the great vari- 
ety in coloring, gives an opportunity to study nature's way of decora- 
tion. From a physiological standpoint, also, there is no material to 
meet the requirements quite as adequately as wood does. It gives a 
measured resistance to the muscles, and can be adai)ted to the individual 
strength of the worker. 

The teacher should have a good knowledge of the different kinds of 
wood suitable for sloyd work, esi^ecially of those kinds most easily 
obtained in the vicinity of the school. 

The various woods are recognized by their texture, color, weight, 
and odor. The texture is best studied in the transverse, radial, and tan- 
gential sections. By a transverse or cross section is meant a cut across 
the fibres of a tree or board. A tangential section is cut in the direction 
of the fibres and at a tangent to the rings of the annual layers. A radial 
section is also made in the direction of the fibres, but forms a radius of 
the rings. It is this last cut which gives the beautiful figures found in 
oak, beech, and maple, and is commonly called quartered wood. 

In studying the cross section we find in the centre a column of cellu- 
lar tissue called the 2)itJi or medulla, and around this centre a number of 
concentric rings called the annual layers. By counting the number of 
these rings we find the age of the tree. Heartwood is the darker and 
firmer part around the pith and saptvood is the outer, lighter, and sappy 



[5. 



ELEMENTABY HLOYB AND WitlTTLING 

X)art of the trunk. Tlie heart wood is more fully developed, and, con- 
sequently, more durable than the sapwood. Between the bark and the 
last annual layer is a ring called the Camh'nan. Tliis is in a transition 
state, and consists of a number of very small cells, which during spring, 
summei", nnd autumn undergo many changes in composition and form, 
and idtimately form a new annual ring consisting of two distinct tex- 
tures known as spriuf/ wood and autumn wood. Spring wood is lighter 
and moie porous, while autumn w^ood is darker and moie durable. 
This is partly the reason for the shifting coloi* in wood. ^Small liiKvs or 
tibi-es leading from the centre to the bai'k are called meduJJanj raj/si or 
.si/rrr f/raiii. These bind together the annual layers and lielp in the 
distribution of moisture through the tiee. 

The l)est season for felling trees is during midwintei' when the sap is 
at a standstill. By the seasoninff of wood is meant the di'iving out of 
the sap 01' moisture which the wood contains. We call wood seasoned 
when the quantity of moisture contained coincides w^ith that contained 
in the atmosphere. A fence, for example, w^ould not need w^ood as well 
seasoned as that used for insid<' furniture. If too well seasoned, the 
wood will swell; if not sufh(dently seasoned, it will shrink. We can 
generally tell whether w^ood is well seasoned by its weight. Another 
way of testing is by knocking on the wood, and, if it is well seasoned, 
it gives forth a ringing sound. Various methods of S(^asoning are em- 
ployed. The best method is to place the wood in the open air in such a 
way as to permit the air to circulate freely about it. Previous to this 
the logs are often placed in a stream of water to draw out the sap more 
quickly. Another process of hastening the seasoning is by artificial 
means. The lumber is jdaced in a gradually rising tempei-ature in a 
kiln, hence the name, kiln-diied wood. The rapidity with which the 
moisture is evaporated depends on the size and quality of the w^ood. 
Soft wood will usuallvdrv in a kiln in four davs, while hard woods take 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 

loDger, vsome requiiiu.i;' years to season. The drying must always be 
done gradually and carefully, or the wood may split. 

Lumber stored \\\) for sloyd work should be placed in such a way 
that the air will circulate freely around it, that is to say, if placed on 
shelves, strips of wood should be placed between the boards. 

Shrinking occurs whenever the wood loses moisture. The shrinkage 
is least with the length of the fibres, and two or three times more in a 
tangential than in a radial direction. 

SweJJinr; is caused by the absorption of moisture, as a drop of water 
placed upon a dent in a sloyd mocel will readily prove. 

Warping is unequal shrinking or swelling. 

Winding is unequal warping caused by unevenness in gi^ain. First- 
class lumber is carefully selected and well seasoned, and it is this grade 
which is required in sloyd. 

Lumber used in sloyd is generally ordered by the square foot, with 
a statement of kind, quality, thickness, and approximate width of 
boards wanted, and whether they are to be I'ough or planed. 

The following brief description of a few kinds of common trees and 
woods, with the different American and Latin names, may be of interest 
and help to teachers and students of Elementary Sloyd and Whittling : 

White Pine, Weymouth Pine, Pinus strobus, is one of the tallest and 
most stately of oui' evergreen tiees. It sometimes reaches a height of 
one liuiuli"ed and twenty feet, with a diameter of tliree to four feet. 
Found from Newfoundland to Manitoba and along the Alleghany Moun- 
tains to Georgia. Bark of the trunk is lighter and smoother than in 
the other pines. Leaves or needles, from tliree to five inches long and 
grow in clusters of fi\ c. Cones, from four to six inches long and about 
one inch in diameter; cylinder-shaped and slightly curved. Wood is 
valual)le timber, and when freshly cut is of a creamy-white appearance, 
but becomes light bi'<>N\ ii <»n e\]K»sui('. Hjc Mood is free from knots, 



L7] 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 

straight-grained, and soft ; not liable to warp and twist, and gives a clean, 
aromatic smell. 

White Pine is excellent for sloyd work, bnt is expensive. White 
Wood and Bass Wood are less expensive, and may be used to some extent 
instead of Pine. 

White Wood, Tulip Tree, Liriodendron tuUpifera. The Tulip Tree 
reaches a height of one hundred and ninety feet, with a trunk ten feet in 
diameter. Found mostly as fal south as Alabama and Georgia. Com- 
mon in New England States, but not abundant. Bark, dark ash -color, 
furrowed. Leaves, alternate, simple, three to tive inches long and wide. 
Wood, light, soft, straight-grained; heartwood light yellow or brown, 
and the thin sapwood nearly white. 

Bass Wood, American Linden, Lime Tree, Bee Tree, TiJla americana. 
A straight-trunked tree, sixty to eighty feet high and two to four feet 
in diameter. Found from British America southwest to Virginia. 
Bark, very thick, dark brown. Inner bark very tough. Is used for 
mats and coarse rope. Leaves, about four to live inches long and from 
three to four inches wide. Wood, white, soft, and clear of knots, less 
valuable than White Wood, owing to its liability to crack in bending. 

Sugar Maple, Hard Maple, Rock Maple, Acer sacclmrinum. A tree 
fifty to eighty feet high or more. Found from southern Canada 
through the Northern States. It grows in rich woods, often forming 
" groves.'^ From its sap we get " maple sugar," about five to ten pounds 
from the average tree each season. Bark, light gray and smooth. 
Leaves, simple, opposite. Wood is white, uniform in texture, hard, 
strong, tough, and difficult to split. Accidental variations furnish the 
handsome Bird's-Eye Maple and Curled Maple. 

Beech, Fa (jus ferruginea. A stately tree, about fitty to eighty feet 
high. Found in rich woods from Nova Scotia to Florida and westward 
to lower Mississippi basin. Bark, light gray and smooth. Leaves, 



[8] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYJ) AND WHITTLING 

egg-shaped, three to six inches long and about half as wide. Fruit, a 
small prickly burr, splitting half-way to the base when ripe. Wood, 
hard, close-grained, light brown, uniform in color. Medullary rays, 
large, glossy, and dark brown. 

Sweet Gum, Bilsted, Liquidamhar sfyraciflua. Sweet Gum comes 
from the Witch-hazel family, and is a tree sixty to one hundred feet 
high, with a trunk two to five feet in diameter. Found from Connecti- 
cut to Illinois and southward. Bark, light brown. In the South a 
spicy gum comes from the bark and is used medicinally. Leaves, 
simple, alternate, five-pointed, star-shaped, fiom three to five inches 
long and three to seven inches broad. Wood, bright reddish-brown, 
sap wood nearly white, close-grained, not strong, liable to warp in dry- 
ing, easj^ to work, takes good i)olish. 

Eed Cedar, Juniperus virginiana. An evergreen tree, fifteen to thirty 
feet high. Found in southern Canada and distributed throughout the 
United States. Bark, reddish brown. Leaves, needle-shaped, about 
one-fourth of an inch long and placed in pairs, sometimes in threes. 
Fruit or berries, about the size of a small pea, bluish and covered with 
a white powder. Wood, valuable, light, durable, fragrant. Heartwood 
dull red, sapwood white. Used almost exclusively in the making of 
lead pencils. 

Butternut, White Walnut, Juglans cinerea. Common. Usually fifty 
to seventy feet high. Bark, light grayish -brown. Leaves, alternate, 
compound, fifteen to thirty inches long, with eleven to seventeen leaflets. 
FPUit, nut, rough, nearly cylindrical; one-half to two and a half inches 
long. Kernel sweet, but oily. Wood, light brown, light, soft. Coarse- 
grained and not strong. Takes good i^olish. 

Black Walnut, Juglans nigra. This is one of the grandest and most 
massive trees. It reaches a height of sixty to seventy feet. Generally 
distributed, abundant in the middle of the Mississippi Valley. Bark, 



[o; 



ELEMENTABY 8L0TD AND* WITITTLIWa 



dark brown. Leaves, alternate, compound, from one to two feet 
long. Fifteen to twenty -three Kaflets. Fruil, nut, oval. About one 
and one-half inches in length. Kernel sweet and edible. Wood, dark 
purplish-brow^n, heavy, hard, close-grained, and strong. Takes a beau- 
tiful polish. 

The Eedwood, Sequoia senipervlrens. The Redwood of California is 
a coniferous tree and belongs to a genus of which the Big Tree is the 
only other species now alivtf. Kedwood foi-ms dense forests on the west 
slopes of the Coast Range. It grows to a greater height than any other 
American tree. It reaches a height of from two hundred and twenty- 
five to three hundred and fifty feet, with a diameter of from ten to 
twenty feet. Most of the Redwood cut are from four hundred to eight 
hundred years old. The oldest Redwood found began life one thousand 
three hundred and seventy-three years ago. Bark is of a reddish-gray 
color. Wood is of color that shades from light cherry to dark mahog- 
any. It is used for all kinds of finishing and construction lumber. 
Usually straight -grained, light, fiim, yet soft. The wood is durable, 
easy to work, and takes a good polish. This wood is not much used in 
the Eastern market, owing largely to the high freight-rates in shipping. 

SUPPLEMENTARY READING ON TREES FOR THE TEACHER. 

" Our Native Trees," by Harriet L. Keeler, Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. 

" American Woods," by Romeyn Hough, I.owville, N. Y. 

"The Trees of North-Eastern America," by Charles S. Newhall. 

"Timber," Bulletin No. 10, United States Department of Agriculture, Division of 
Forestry. 

"The Redwood," Bulletin No. 38, U. S. Department of Agriculture, Bureau of 
Forestry. 

"With the Trees," hy Maud Going, comments on the trees from the standpoints of 
the naturalist and nature-lover, and contains legends and stories. 

" A Year with Trees," by Wilson Flagg; gives brief essays on trees and their habits, and 
considers the tree in its relation to climate, soil, birds, insects, ornament, poetry, and fal)le. 

"A Guide to the Trees," by Alice Lounsberry; brief descriptions ot trees from the 
standpoint of the naturalist, with some notes of legend and history. Especially fine 
illustrations in color by Mrs. Ellis Rowan. 

"Familiar Trees," by Y. Schuyler Matthews; a naturalist's description of trees. 



[10] 



FLEMEXTAin' SLOYD AXD WHITTLIXG 

"Among Flowers and Trees with the Poets," compiled by Minnie Curtis Wait and 
Merton Channing Leonard. Parts III and IV of this volume are devoted to trees and 
shrubs — in general; trees and shrubs — specified. This book contains a rare collection 
of flower and tree poetry. 

"In the Child's World," by Emilie Poulsson ; list of tree selections for teachers is 
given on page 256. 

SUPPLEMEXTAKY READING OX TREES FOR CHILDREN 

The followiiiij;- list of books for children contains facts about trees, de- 
scriptions of trees and their habits, as well as stories, myths, and legends 
in prose and poetry. Most of tlie volnnies are illustrated. 

"Trees in Prose and Poetry." by Gertrude L. Stone and Grace Frichett. This 
book presents the tree in descriptive narrative and in legend, myth, and story. 

" Book of Nature Myths," by Florence Holbrook, contains two legends: " Why the 
Evergreen Trees Never Lose Their Leaves " and " \Vhy the Aspen Leaves Tremble." 

"Nature Myths," by Flora J. Cooke, contains the following tree stories: " Daphne," 
"Fairy Story," "Philemon and Baucis," "Poplar Tree," "The Secret of Fire." 

"In Mythland," by M. Helen Beckwith, contains. two tree stories: " How Daphne 
Became a Tree"; "Philemon and Baucis." 

"The Stories Mother Nature Told her Children," by Jane Andrews, contains two tree 
stories: "The Talk of the Trees in the Village Street," "How Quercus Alba went to 
Explore the Lender World and What Came of It." 

"The Stories of the Trees," by Mrs. Dyson, presents, in a series of talks, the nat- 
ural features and habits of trees, as well as various historical facts relating to them. 

" A Japanese Garland," l)y Florence Peltier, gives the Japanese symbolism of tree 
and flower. 

" The Story Hour," by K. I). Wiggin and Nora A. Smith, contains "A Story of 
the Forest," a charming Xmas storj'. 

" Stories," by Hans C. Andersen, contains " The Last Dream of the Old Oak," a 
symbolic tree story in Andersen's best vein. 

"In the Child's World," by Emilie Poulsson, gives talks and poems on trees, pages 
253-262. In this volume a list of tree selections is given for teacher and children. Page 30 
contains a charming story, " An Old-Fashioned Rhyme. ' This Is the Tree of the Forest.' " 

" Nature in Verse," compiled by Marv I. Lovejov. ' Three Trees,'' page 288; 
"The Little Pine Tree," page 285; "The free," by Bjornson, page 26; "The Tree," 
by Jones Very, page 27. 

"Open Sesame," vol. 1. Edited by B. W. Bellamy and M. D. Goodwin. "To the 
Fir Tree," from the German, page 121. 

"All the Year Round." Part II. "Winter," compiled by Frances L. Strong; 
"The Little Fir Trees," page 56; by Evaleen Stein; "The Fir Tree," adapted from 
Andersen, page 50; "The Discontented Pine," by C. S. Bumstead, page 46; "The 
Evergreen," page 42; " The Pine," page 44. 

"Golden Numbers," compiled by Kate D. Wiggin and Nora A. Smith; "The Plant- 
ing of the Apple Tree," page 59, Bryant; "Mine Host of the Golden Apple," page 64, 
Thomas Westwood: " A Young Fir Tree," D. G. Rossetti, page 65; " The Showing of 
the Pines," page 66, by T. W Higginson. 



[11 



TOOLS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR ELEMENT- 
ARY SLOYD 

Tools are instrumeuts by which the hands give material expression 
to thought. Consequently, such tools should be selected as will best 
promote physical and mental growth. 

The tools should be of the best quality; although the first cost 
may seem large it is cheaper in the long run. While tools of regular 
size are best in ordinary sloyd, smaller ones should be selected for 
young children. Toy tools, or those found in children's tool-boxes, are 
generally of poor quality and not to be recommended. To avoid many 
failures, the tools should not only be of the right kind, but properly 
sharpened and adjusted. It must be remembered that good tools must 
be kept in good condition. 

To teach habits of order and neatness, Benches and Tools must be 
kept in perfect order. The rule should be : ^^ A place for everything 
and everything in its place. " 

In order to simplify and economize the outfit for Elementary Sloyd, 
it is thought best that only one kind of Plane be used, and that such 
tools as Marking Gauges, Auger Bits, Chisels, and Carving Tools be 
excluded. 

The following illustrations, with exj)lanations of Benches and Tools 
used in Elementary Sloyd, may be of service : 



[12: 



ELEMENTABY SLOYI) ANT> WRITTLIXG 




Fig. 1. 

SINGLE ADJUSTABLE SLOYD BENCH 

The Bench here illustrated was designed by the author in 1889. It 
differs from the ordinary carpenter's bench in that it is adjustable to 
suit the height of the worker. Instead of the common iron bench-stop 
for i)laning, it has an end vise and holes for wooden stops or pins along 
the bench-top. These hold the wood securely at both ends while plan- 
ing bevels, cylinders, etc., and in modelling different forms. A single 
stop may be used for straight-surface planing. As a general rule, such 
work as requires strong muscular effort should be done in the direction 
of the length of the bench, and any hammering or i^ounding should be 
done over the upright supports. The top is glued ui:> from four or more 



13 



ELEMENTAliY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 

strii^s of maple to prevent warping, and the lower part is fastened to- 
gether by keyed joints. Vises and screws are made of maple. Wood 
screws are considered better, althougli iron screws will be furnished if 
desired. 

Two sizes of this Bench are made. The smaller size is designated 
by the manufacturers as ^o. 6, and is large enough for any work which 
may be done by children in grammar grades. 

The extreme length and widtlf of Bench ^o. 6 is forty-two by twenty- 
eight inches, and Bench Ko. 5 is one foot longer. The height may be 
adjusted from thirty to thirty-three inches, which is suitable for pupils 
from eight to twelve years. 

The Benches should be placed in such a way as to have the light 
come from the left and back as the woi-ker faces the Bench. 

The distance between Benches should not be less than two feet. 
Benches should be securely fastened to the floor by means of a leg screw 
at each end. 

Tools most frequently used are kept on the bench, in racks, and on 
hooks, all within sight. This arrangement allows the teacher to observe 
readily the order in which the tools are kept, and in this respect it is 
superior to the use of drawers and lockers. The back- board with the 
tool-rack may be lowered, if desired, so as to make it level with the 
bench-top. Great care should be taken not to injure the bench-top. 
To keep it in good condition it should be rubbed down occasionally with 
raw linseed oil. 



[14 



ELEMENTABY SLOYD ANT) WIIITTLIXG 




Fig. 2. 

WORK TABLE FOR FOUR PUPILS 

This Table is designed for use in places where the regular single 
sloyd bench is thought too expensive. It is a strong Table. Size of 
top, thirty-six by thirty-six inches; height, thirty inches; four 
vises attached. This accommodates four pupils. 



[15] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHTTTLING 




Fig. 3. 

CLAMP VISE 

In order further to lessen the expense of an outfit, Clamp Vises 
may be obtained and fastened to a horizontal board or strong table. 
This clamp can be used only while doing light work. 



[16: 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 



Tools illustrated in the order in which theij are used : 



mm 



Fig. 4. 

NEW PENCIL COMPASSES 

Lead pencil :No. 3 is recommended for wood-work. Keep point of 
pencil about one inch long. In sharpening, remove wood with knife 
and point the lead on l^o. 1 sandpaper. 

In using Compasses adjust point to equal length with pencil point 
and hold at top between thumb and forefinger. 




Fig. 5. 

RULE (BOXWOOD, 2 FT. 2 FOLD) 

Hold Eule on edge in measuring and marking distances, but lay it 
flat on material in drawing lines. 



[17] 



ELEMENTABT SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




lllllll 

iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiililllllillllil^ 

Fig. 6. 

IRON SMOOTHING-PLANE, 8 IN, X 1 3-4 IN. CUTTER 

(BAILEY) 

Set Cap-iron about one-sixteeuth of an inch from edge of Plane- 
iron. Adjust i^lane iron for coarse or fine sliavings by using the thumb 
on the brass adjusting -nut (thumb-screw) while resting the ''heel" on 
the bench. Move lateral adjustment so as to make ed!?e of Plane-iron 
appear even. 

Grasp the plane by the handle and press and guide fiinily with the 
other hand on the ''knob, "taking special care not to tip tlie plane at 
the ends of the wood. 

When x)laning with right hand i^lace left foot forward in direction of 
working force. Keep legs and back straight, but not in a constrained 
position. 

When end planing on bench hook is to be done, set cap back about 
one-eighth of an inch, and hold side of plane firmly on the bench close to 
bench hook. 

If plane clogs with shavings remove iron to clean it. Never take 
out shavings with knife or any other tool. In grinding or whetting 
plane-iron keep cutting-edge and bevel straight, rounding the corners a 
little. 



[is: 



ELEMENTARY SLOYB ANT) WITTTTLINCr 




LIST OF PAETS OF BAILEY PLA:N^E 



1. Plane-Iron. 

2. Plane-Iron Cap. 

3. Plane -Iron Screw. 

4. Cap. 

5. Cap Screw. 

6. Frog'. 

7. '' Y " Adjustment. 

8. Brass Adjusting -Nut 
Thumbscrew. 



9. Lateral Adjustment. 

10. Frog Screw. 

11. Handle. 

12. Knob. 

13. Handle '^ Bolt and ISnt'' 

14. Knol) ^^ Bolt and Xut." 

15. Handle Screw, 
or IG. Bottom. 





Fi'j-. 8. 



BENCH-HOOK, OAK 

Examine Bench -Iiook with try square to see if it is true. If not, 
correct it befoi-e using. Hook it over edge of bench, or fasten in vise 
flat and firmh'. 



[lo; 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WBTTTLING 




Fig. 9. 

SPLITTING SAW (SPECIAL, 14 IN. lOPTS.) 

This Saw is used for sawing with the grain of the wood, or in the 
direction in which the wood splits. The cutting-ofif or cross-cut Saw is 
used for cutting across the fibres of the wood. For shape of different 
teeth see Fig. 10. 

The Saw should be grasped firmly with one hand on handle and the 
other resting on the wood. Place the feet in proper position, with the 
advance foot in the direction of the working force, as in planing. The 
saw must not be pressed down upon the wood, but moved horizontally 
with long, light, and even strokes. 

Note : In the vigorous exercises of planing and sawing, it is of the 
utmost importance that correct positions be maintained, in order to 
avoid fatigue and possible deformity, and to insure better work. For 
the same reasons exercises in planing, sawing, and boring may be done 
alternately by right and left hand. 



[20] 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 



Splitting 10 pts. to inch. 



Cutting off 12 pts. to inch. 

Fig. 10. 

SAW TEETH 




iM'i'M|'i'r'T''i''T''i''T''r'T''i''' 

5 4 3^1 



Fig. 11. 

IRON HANDLE TRY SQUARE 

This tool consists of blade and beam or handle, and is nsed for test- 
ing surfaces ^yhich should be at right angles to each other, and for 
spuaring lines across the wood. In using hold the handle firmly up to 
the planed face (working face) of the wood. Do not hammer or pry 
with this tool, as it makes it inaccurate for use. 



[21] 



ELEMESTARY SLOl'D AND ^fSITTLING 




BIT BRACE (BARBER, 4 IN.) 

Fasten the bit securely in the jaws. Wlien using hold the head of 
the brace in the left hand and turn crank to light. 



Fig. 13. 

DRILL BIT, WITH BIT POINT 

This bit is used for boring holes for jaails, screws, etc. This tool has 
a triangular point to insure its boring in the right place. Be careful to 
hold bit at right angles to wood and use light, even pressure. Boring 
in a horizontal direction is preferable in Elementary Sloyd. 



[22] 



FLEMENTAKV SLOYD A^'D WHITTLING 




Fig. 14. 

CENTRE BIT 

This tool is useful for boring in thin wood, as it does not split it. 
Bore only until the centre or spur comes through, then turn wood and 
finish. 

The bit should be sharpened with a fine file and slijj stone and tried 
on waste piece of wood before using. 




Fiir. i: 



COUNTERSINK (ROSE) 

This tool is used with brace to sink holes for screw heads. 



[23 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fiir. 16. 



TOOL HANDLE WITH 20 AWLS AND TOOLS 

The cuts of this tool illustrate the various uses for which it is 
adapted. 

lu using the brad-awl place the edge across the grain of the wood 
and repeatedly turn the hand half-way around and back with slight 
pressure. 



[24] 



ELEMENT ABY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 17. 

BACK SAW, 10 INCH 

This is a saw with very fine teeth and makes a smooth cut. In Ele- 
mentary Sloyd it may be used in place of the cross-cut saw. 

The thin blade is strengthened by an iron ''back," from which the 
saw derives its name. 




Fig. 18. 

HAMMER, A. E. B. F. (7 OZ.) 

Hold the hammer near the end of handle and strike squarely on the 
nail head. When withdrawing nails with the claw of the hammer place 
a block of wood under the head so as not to injure the planed surface. 



Vlo] 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 



Fig. 19. 

NAIL SET (HOLLOW POINT) 

The nail set is used for driving nails below the surface of the 
wood. The hole left in the wood after setting the nail may be partly 
closed by applying a drop of water, but no putty or plug should be used. 
The nail set with the hollow point is preferable to the one with a flat 
point, as it does not slip. 




Fig. 20. 

HALF ROUND FILE, SIN. 

A file should never be used ^hen an edge tool can accomplish the 
work. 

In smoothing a surface to a line hold the handle of the file with the 
right hand and place the left hand at the end of the file, with the thumb 
on the top. If the file becomes clogged, use a file card or place in luke- 
waim water. After drying clean with a brush. 



[26; 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




TURNING SAW (8 IN., 1-8 IN. BLADE, 12 PTS.) 

Before using the turning saw, see that the blade is perfectly straight 
and tight. Grasp the saw with both, hands at the handle where the 
teeth of the saw point away from you and move it squarely through the 
wood with long, liglit, steady strokes. By loosening the cord and tak- 
ing out one end of the blade it may be used for interior cutting, such as 
picture-frames, etc. 




Fig. 23. 

IRON SPOKE-SHAVE 

The spoke-shave is a most valuable tool because both hands are 
equally used. Originally it Avas used in making spokes, hence its name. 
It can be used either from you or towards you, but always on curved 
surfaces and should not be used where the plane can be used equally 
well. Care must be taken to cut always with the grain of the wood. 



[27: 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AN3 WHITTLING 




Fig. 23. 

SCREW-DRIVER, 3-IN. ROUND 

See that the end of the screw-driver is perfectly tlat and that the 
narrow sides are as nearly parallel as possible. In using hold it firmly 
and straight in the groove of the screw head, so as not to mar the screw 
head. 



Fig. 24. 

SLOYD KNIFE, 3-IN. BLADE 

The knife is not recommended for Elementary Sloyd, as children may 
not have sufficient strength for its use. It is a useful tool, however, in 
places where no other can be used conveniently. The knife recom- 
mended has a blade three inches long, with a straight bevel on both 
sides and a four-inch handle. The tang of the blade is riveted through 
the handle so as to make it more secure. 



[28: 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



Fisr. 25 



COMPASS SAW (IRON HANDLE) 

The compass or keyliok^ saw is used to saw interior parts, such as 
keyholes, picture-frames, etc. 




Fig. 26. 

DRAWING KNIFE 

This tool, like the spoke-shave, can be used with both hands. 
It is used for heavy work in cutting off rough edges, branches and bark, 
rounding poles, handles, etc. In using the drawing knife the wood 
should be fastened in the vise. 



29 



ELEMENTARY SLOTD AND' WHITTLING 




Fig. 27 

FLAT FILE, SMOOTH, 5 IN. 

This file is used for sharpeDiiig bits, cap irons, etc., previous to the 
use of the slip stoue. 




Fig. 28. 

SLIP STONE 

The slip stone is used for whettiug the inside of gouges, bits, etc. 




Fig. 29. 

SHARPENING OUTFIT 

The oil stoue should be kept clean and straight. If uneven it is 
difficult to sharpen the tools properly. 

To make the oil stone level fasten a half sheet of No. 1 sandpaper on 
a board, apply a little water, and rub until tine. 



[30] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 80. 

GRINDSTONE, IS-IN. DIAMETER 

Keep water in the troiigii only when grinding. In sharpening edge 
tools turn the stone toward the edge of the tool. Hold the tool steadily 
and firmly and give a lateral motion across the stone to prevent irreg- 
ular wearing. 

Aim to make a flat bevel. 



For the illustration of tools, the author is indebted to Messrs. Chandler & Barber, 
Boston, Mass. 



[31 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 



LIST OF TOOLS AXD MATEEIAL FOR FOUR PUPILS 

1 Work Table for four pupils, $10. 
Single Adjustable Sloyd Bench, $9. 

4 New Pencil Compasses, with Lead Pencil No. 3. 
4 Rules (boxwood, 2 foot, 2 fold). 
4 Iron Smoothing PlanesfSxlf inch cutter (Bailey). 
4 Bench Hooks. 

2 Splitting Saws (special 14 inches, 10 points). 
4 Try Squares, (6 inches). 

2 Bit Braces (Barber, 4 inches). 

2 Drill Bits, with bit points each 3-16 and ^ inch. 

2 Centre. Bits, each, f, f, h f. ^^^ i ii^^h. 

1 Countersink (Rose). 

1 Tool Handle (20 awls and tools). 

2 Back Saws, (10 inches). 

1 Hammer, A. E. B. F. (7 ounces). 

1 Nail Set (hollow point). 

2 Half Round Files (8 inches). 

2 Turning Saws (8 inches, |-inch blade, 12 points). 
2 Iron Spoke-shaves. 

1 Screw-driver (3 inches round). 

2 Sloyd Knives (3 -inch blade). 

1 Cross-cut Saw (special, 14 inches). 

1 Compass Saw (iron handle). 

Total cost for one pupil with single Adjustable Bench, 

Total cost for four pupils with table for four, $33.19. 



[32; 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD ANT> WHITTLING 



AMOUNT OF WOOD FOR THE FIEST TWELVE MODELS 
FOR FOUR PUPILS 

The wood should be of the best quality, kilii-dried and planed. 
4 square feet ^- inch White wood. 



7 


" 1- 


a a 


3 '' 


'' h 


u a 


.0 '' 


" f- 


u u 


\ " 


foot ^- 


U iC 


1 '' 


'' i- 


'' White Pine. 


6 '' 


feet i- 


^^ Sweet Gum or Black Walnut. 


H '' 


" t- 


a ( ( i ( i ( i ( ( i 


4 Maple 


Dowels 


f inch. 

MISCELLANEOUS 



Wire Brads i inch, No 19. 

'' '' 1 ^' No 17. 

'' '^ 1| inches. No. 15. 
Screws f inch, No. 1. 

'' 1 '' No. 8. 

^' li inches, No. 10 (Round Head). 

'- 2 '^ No. 14 (Round Head, Blue). 
^ Pint Le Page's Liquid Glue. 
Sandi^aper Nos. 1 and 0. 
Flat File. (Smooth, 5 inch.) 
Slip Stone. 

Sharpening Outfit (India Oil Stone, Oil Can, and Cotton Waste, 
mounted on w^ood). 

Grindstone 18 inches diameter. 



[33 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD 




DIRECTIONS FOR ELEMENTARY SLOYD 









Fig. 81. 

I.— PENCIL SHARPENER 

White wood, i inch. 

TOOLS 

Pencil, Rule, Plane, Bench Hook. 

DIRECTIONS 

Wood i:)repared 6Jx If Inches. 

1. Plane one side straight. 

2. Measure width, draw line, and plane. 

3. Plane one end in bench hook. 

4. Measure length and plane. 

5. Sandpaper with block, rounding corners. 
C. Cut sandpaper, No. 1, and glue to wood. 



[37: 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 





*-S'-*4 ■* 


hi 








K-V-^ 










J U( 


,1 . 


t 




MAT HOOK. 


CURH^OK. 


HAT HOOK. 


T 






1-4 







Fig. 32. 

2.-HAT AND BRUSH RACK 

White Pine, f inch. 

:t^EW TOOLS 
Splitting Saw, Try Square, Bit Brace, and Drill Bit. 

DIEECTIOXS 
Wood prepared in length 14^ inches. 

1. Plane one side straight and square. 

2. Measure width, draw line, saw ^ inch from it, and plane to line. 

3. See 3 and 4 in Model Xo. 1. 

4. Draw centre line, measure for hooks and holes, and bore holes. 

5. See 5 in Model Ko. 1. 

6. Put in hooks, two wire hooks for ends and one cup hook for centre. 



[38] 



ELEMENTABY WHITTLING AND SLOYD 



E 



E 






5k 



Fig. 33. 

3.-STAND 

White wood, i and f inch. 

XEW TOOLS 
Back SaAY, Hammer, and Xail Set. 

DIEECTIOXS 
Wood for supports 11 x f inch, for slats 11 x I inch. 

1. Saw for supports 1 inch wide and plane square to required dimen- 

sions. 

2. Find centre, saw with back saw. 

3. See 3 and 4, Model No. 1. 

4. Saw pieces for slats 1 inch wide, and plane and saw as for supports. 

5. Sandpaper, find points for nails, drive and set nails. 



[39] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYB AND WHITTLING 



•)it 









T 


f—- 




n 


-ini 




U) 

1 
i 












13" 







Fig. 34. 

4.— SWING BOARD 

Whitewood. f inch. 

NEW TOOLS 

Centre Bit f iucli, half-round File 8 inches. 

DIEECTIONS 
Wood x^repared in length 13| inches. 

1. See 1 and 2 in Model No. 2. 

2. Fasten wood firmly in the Aise and plane one end square. (In order 

not to split corners, always plane from corners toward centre. ) 

3. Measure length, draw line, and plane to it. 

4. Find points for centres of holes, and bore (horizontally) from both 

sides. 

5. Draw lines with try squai-e, finish with back saw, file, and sand- 

paper. 

Note : See that centre bit is well sharpened with file and slip stone 
and tried before using. 



[40] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 85. 

5.— TEAPOT STAND 

Wliitewood. | inch. 

NEW TOOLS 

Pencil Compasses, Turning Saw, Spoke-shave, Screw-driver, |-inch. 
Centre Bit with lip tiled away is used in makiug the feet. 

DIRECTIONS 
Wood prepared 7^ x 7^ inches. 

1. Draw one diagonal. Erect perpendicular at centre and draw circle. 

2. Fasten wood lirinly in vise, keeping grain of wood nearly in a verti 

cal position to avoid splitting. 

3. Saw i inch outside of circle, holding saw firmly with both hands at 

handle end of blade. Care should be taken to keep blade at right 
angles to surface of wood. 

4. Spoke-shave to line, always using the tool with the grain of the wood. 

5. Locate centres for hok^s and boie. 

6. Sandpaper, make feet of i-inch wood, and fasten with ^-inch screws. 



[41] 



ELEMEl^TABY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 




Fiff. 36. 



6.-SHELF FOR PHOTOGRAPHS 

Whitewood. i and i inch. 

^"EW TOOLS 

Cross-cut Saw and Knifee 



[42: 



ELEMENTABY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



DIEECTIONS 

1. Let pupil estimate the pro];)er amount of wood. 

2. Explain and illustrate to children the difference between cross-cut 

and splitting saws. 

3. Saw with cross-cut and splitting saws. 

4. Plane pieces to required dimensions. 

5. Draw arcs with compasses, cut to line with knife, and finish with 

file. 

6. Locate points for holes and nails. 

7. Bore holes, sandpaper, nail, and set nails. 

Note: Simple decoration, such as launching, veining, or coloring, may 
be used on front of shelf at the discretion of the teacher. 



[431 



FjLementaey sloyd and whittling 




Fig. 37. 

7.-RING TOSS 

Whitewood. |- and | inch, |-incli dowel. 

NEW TOOL 

Countersink. 

DIEECTIONS 

See 1, 3, and 4 in Model No. 6. 

1. If a bevel is desired, draw lines and plane. 

2. Locate holes for screws and for dowel. 

3. Bore with centre bit and drill bit. 

4. Countersink holes for screws, sandpaper, and fasten cleats to board 

across the grain of the wood. 

5. Fit and glue dowel. 

Note: The rings may be made of rope, rattan, or wire wound with 
raffia, or bought ready for use. 



[44] 



ELEMFXTAEY SLOYD AXD WIIITTLIXG 



^T 



IS 



«w 



Fig. 38. 

8.— SPADE 

Whitewood. Thickness, | inch. 

DIEECTIO:NrS 

1. See 1, 3, and 4 iu Model Xo. 6. 

2. Measure and draw on wood straight lines and arcs for handle and 

blade. 

3. Bore holes and saw with splitting saw and back saw. 

4. Finish to lines with knife and spoke-shave. 

5. Draw oblique lines on sides of blade, and plane. 

6. Eound handle (making it first octagonal) with sx)oke- shave, finish 

with file, and sandpaper. 



[45: 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 39. 

9.-CALENDAR BACK 

Sweet Gum or Black Walnut, i inch. 

directio:n^s 

1. Prepare wood 7 inches long, and plane to correct width. 

2. Draw centre line and construction for top. 

3. Finish with turning saw, knife, and file. 

4. Bore holes with finch centre bit, beginning with lower left-hand 

hole. 

5. Mark length, saw, and i)lane. 

6. Finish with sandpaper and mount calendar. 

KOTE : This back may also be used in constructing a match-safe. 



[46] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 






^ 



-t"A 



0> 



Fig. 40. 

10.— FRAME 

Sweet Gum or Black Walnut. i inch. 

NEW TOOL 
Compass Saw. 

dieectio:n^s 

1. Prepare oblong. 

2. Draw lines for opening. 

3. Place centres for f -inch holes at corners and bore. 

4. Use compass saw, and saw close to line. 

5. Finish with knife, file, and sandpaper. 

Note : Size of frame according to the picture suggested by the children. 
Cardboard may be used for the back. The frame may be finished 
to dotted lines if desired. 



[47] 



ELEMENTABY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 41. 

1 1 .—HANDKERCHIEF BOX 

Sweet Gum or Black Walnut. | and ^ inch. 

DIEECTIOXS 

1. Prepare sides iu one piece and finish to required dimensions. 

2. Sandpaper inside and nail, using 1-incli brads. 

3. Prepare cover and bottom in one piece and finish to required dimen- 

sions. 

4. Saudi^aper bottom and nail. 

5. Prepare cleats and screw to cover. 

6. Fit hinges (1^ inch narrow) and sink to proper depth on box only, 

screw hinge to box, and then to cover. A simple fastener may be 
attached. 

Note : Ai)i)ropriate decorations, such as simple carving, burning, or 
coloring, may be applied on Models 9, 10, and 11. 



[48] 



FLEMFNTABY SLOrn JXD WITITTLTXG 




Fig. 42. 

12.-CART 

Whitewood. i, |, and i inch. jVIaple Dowel | x 24 inches. 

DIRECTIONS 

1. Prepare sides and l)ottoiii in one piece, and the ends in similar 

manner. 

2. Finish separate parts and nail box together, using l|-inch brads for 

sides and 1-inch brads for bottom. 

3. Prepare pieces for wheels and finish with turning saw, spoke-shave, 

and file. 

4. Preiiare axle and use f -inch dowel for handle. 

5. Bore holes in sides of axle, in handle, and wheels, and fasten screws 

in same order. Use round-head blue screws (2 inch No. 14) for 
wheels, and flat-head screws (1| inch No. 10) for axle and handle. 



[49] 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 



SUPPLEMENTARY MODELS 

By supplementary models is meant a Aariety of objects containing 
given exercises to suit individual needs. 




TOY WINDMILL 

White Pine. ^ and i inch. 

dieectio:n^s 

1. Make base according to drawing. 

2. Make upright support 6f x | inches square. 

3. Plane one end square in bench hook. 



[50] 



FLEMEXTAFY SLOYD AXF WlTTTTLTXa 

4. Taper with plane on three sides to |-iiich square at top. 

5. Make "wings" in one length 8^x^ inch square. 

6. Measure, square lines, cut in halves, and plane ends in bench hook 

to required lengtli. 

7. Measure, square lines on three sides of each piece, for halved 

together joint. 

8. Make joint with back saw and knife, taking care to fit it tight and 

put together. 

9. Draw one diagonal at each end in ox^i^osite directions. 

10. Measure and draw cui'ved and straight lines on both sides of each 

'^wing'^ according to drawing. 

11. Take joint apart and finish "wings" with knife and sandx^aper. 

12. Press jointrtogether and bore holes through it and the base with ^\- 

inch drill bit. 

13. Make a round washer of wood ^ x ^ inch. 

14. Sandpaper, insert washer, and screw parts together. 

15. Insert a ware at top with a light flag which will indicate direction 

of the wind. Fasten base in a windy place with two screws and 
turn upright supi:)ort according to the direction of the wind. 

i^OTE: A more comx3licated windmill which would set in motion some 
mechanical apparatus may be consi ructed. 



[51 



ELEMENTAllY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Whitewood. ^ inch. 



DIEECTIOXS 

1. Prepare with saw and plane two strips of wood, one 24 x j\ inches 

and the other 18 x j^^ inches, 

2. Cut notches at ends with knife according to drawing. 

3. Measure and join pieces together by means of two ^-inch brads. 



[52 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AXD WJTTTTLIXG 

4. Sink brads witli miil-set, lioldiiig tlie wood on a. piece of metal, and 

strengthen joint by winding- and tying a string crosswise aronnd. 

5. Use light bnt strong twine around tlie kib^, tying it securel}' at each 

end. 

6. Cover with light paper or canibi-ic by t'oUling and i)asting- or glning 

it aronnd the string. 

7. Fasten a piece of twine abont a foot long at each side, and cut and tie 

paper wings to it. 

8. Make tail abont three times as long as length of kite and fasten light 

l^aper wings on it abont 8 inches apart. 

9. Fasten the end of a ball or spool of strong twine to kite, according to 

drawing, and in flying nse a reel to wind it on. 

^fiToTE : Different sizes and shapes of kites may be made, bnt the one 
described above will prove to be simple and to fly well. 



[53] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




A.MaS-<* Bg. J^ DOWEL 

B. Be>«M 7^ » 

C. GArr Az. 

O. SCREV./ EVES ^" 
E. BRASS CURTA^ - 
RINGS ^" 




Fig. 43. 

TOY BOAT 

White Pine. \ inch. 

DIEECTIONS 

1. Prepare wood 11^ X 3^ inches. 

2. Plane one side straight. 

3. Draw centre line parallel to planed side. 

4. Divide distances of length and sqnare lines across. 



154] 



ELEMENTARY SLOT]} A ND WHITTLING 

5. Measure aud mark distances of widtli and connect points with a 

free-hand curve. 

6. Draw arc at end with compass. 

7. Cut to lines with turning saw and tinish with spoke-shave and 

knife. 

8. Make keel and rudder according to drawing. 

9. Fasten keel and rudder with screws. 

10. Prepare lead for keel and fasten with screws. 

11. Use f^g-inch maple dowel for mast, boom, aud gaft". 

12. Make sail and rig according to drawing. 

13. Try boat in bath-tub to see if it balances. 

Note : If children have the requisite skill, use thicker wood for hull and 
hollow it out with gouge and shape it outside with spoke-shave. 
Various sizes may be made. 



55 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 






^"VA 



tii/- 



•^" 



4^ 



9 



y 






^ 



Fig. 46. 

DOLL'S CHAIR 

White wood, f inch. 

DIEECTIONS 

1. Prepare an oblong for back according to the drawing. 

2. Saw out side pieces and seat in one length and plane width. 

3. Mark length of each piece according to drawing ; saw and plane ends. 

4. Construct back and side pieces and finish" with back saw, turning 

saw, knife, and file. 

5. Mark out heart-shaped holes and finish with f-incli centie bit, com- 

pass, saw, and file. 

6. Sandpaper. 

7. Locate places for brads and nail parts together. 



[56J 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 47. 

DOLL'S TABLE 

Wliitewoocl. f inch. 

dieectio:n^s 

1. Mark and cut two legs in one length and plane width. 

2. Mark length of each piece, saw, and plane. 

3. Make top. 

4. Prepare shelf and two cleats according to drawing. 

5. Construct feet and heart-shaped holes. (See Chair, 4, 5, 0, and 7.) 

Note : A child's chair and table may be made by using f -inch Avood and 
enlarging the dimensions about three times. 
In this case l^-inch Xo. 9 screws should be used for fastening parts 
together. 



[57] 



ELEMENTABY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



r'r 



r 



Tt. 



^H 



T 



i'"^^ 






r 



//«• 



/C 



Fig. 48. 

DOLL'S BEDSTEAD 

Whitewood. f and i inch. 

DIEECTIONS 

1. Make the two uprights in one length, phme narrow sides. 

2. Mark length, saw, and plane. 

3. Make the two side pieces in one width, plane narrow sides and ends, 

mark width, cut apart, and plane. 

4. Construct shape of uprights and sides according to drawing. 

5. Finish top of uprights, using 1-inch centre bit at round corners. 

(). Construct feet and heart-shaped holes. (8ee Chair 4, 5, 6, and 7.) 

7. Mark out the strips for the bottom and the cleats in one piece 

15 X 4 X ^ inch. 

8. Mark and cut x^ieces to proi:>er dimensions. 

9. Sandi^aper and fasten parts together. 



[58 J 



ELE3IENTABT SLOYD AND WfflTTLTSG 




SHELF 

White^vood. f iucli. 



dieectio:n^s 

Construct tlie parts in detail upon x:)aper or blackboard. 

Let i)upil estimate amount of wood recpiired. 

Take greatest length of parts in the direction of the grain. 

Construct back, shelf, and bracket accoi'ding to di-awing. 

Saw and plane parts to given dimensions. 

liore holes at top and bottom of back with ^^-inch drill bit. 

Sandpaper parts. 

Space places for brads or screws and fasten parts together. 

OTE: If screws are preferred, use f-inch Xo. 6. The shelf maybe 
stained and polished. 



59 J 



fAjEMentary sloyd and whittling 




Fig. 50. 

BIRD HOUSE 

Wliitewood. i inch. 

dieectio:n^s 

1. See 1 iu model Shelf. Fig. 49. 

2. Estimate wood for back and front in one piece and sides and bottom 

in one. 

3. Plane required width of these two pieces. 

4. Measure out according to drawing and cut lengths, Plane ends 

without bench hook. 

5. Prepare top. 

(). Bore holes for entrance and for ^-iuch dowel. 

7. Bore four J-inch holes through bottom, 1 inch from sides, tor drainage. 

8. I^ail sides together with 1^-inch brads. 

9. Fit bottom and top. Nail bottom and fasten top by round head 

blued screws IJ inch No. 8. 
10. Insert a dowel 6x^ inch. 



LOU J 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 51. 

SLED 

White Avood or Ash. 'i inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

1. Prepare a piece for the two i-iuiners al)Oul 06^ x ~\ inches. 

2. Coustriict the outline of runners and saw with splittini;- and turn- 

ing saw. 

3. Fhine straight sides and use spoke-shave and knife for the curved 

parts. 

4. If convenient, plan for top and the two suppoits in one piece, about 
lJ2f X 10 inches. Cut out supports from one side in one length. 

5. Plane narrow faces of top and supports to required width. 

G. Construct ends on top and supi)ort. 

7. Use turning saw on curved ends ot top and finish with s^poke-shave, 
knife, and file. 



[Gl] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 

8. Bore a f-inch hole in a waste piece of wood. Finish round ends of 

supports with back saw and knife, and fit tight in }-inch hole. 

9. Mark out and bore holes on sides of runners. Finish the handle 

hole with j-inch centre bit, compass saw, knife, and file. 

10. Bore screw holes with ^Viiich drill bit and use countersink. 

11. Use 1^-inch screws Ko. 9. 

Note : If under j)art of runners have the edges rounded off, they may 
be used without iron shoes. If children are able to do so, they 
may use hoop iron for shoes, punching, drilling, and countersink- 
ing holes for screws, bending it around the "toe" and "heel " and 
fastening with J-inch ISo. 6 screws. 



[62 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AXP ^YHITTLING 





DETAIU or C0MSTR.UCTI01M Oha 
TOP AND SIDES OF T/KBOURE-r . 



Fii 




Alternate 

DEStSN 



TABOURET 

^Vllitl'^V()()(l or Biisswood. -^ inch. 

DIRECTIONS 

1. Saw out two pieces of wood for sides, one .'U^x 10^ inches and the 
other .'U| x 9 inches. 

2. If too h)ng to phme, cut each piece in halves and phine to required 

width. 

3. Plane each end square to requii-ed length. 

4. Di-aw constructiou on each of the foui- sides and cnt with centre bit, 

splitting saw, knife, and spoke-shave. 

5. Smooth inside of each piece with plane and sandpaper. 

6. See that the narrow faces of the two narrow sides are perfectly 

square. 



[631 



ELE3IENTABY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 

7. M;ike lour cleats each T^xfxf inch and bore two y\-iucli holes 

through both sides. 

8. Screw cleats on the inner side of the fonr pieces flush with top. 

9. Hpace and mark for nails on the two broad sides, abont 1 inch fi'om 

ends and 3 inches between nails. 

10. Use 1^-incli brads and (^ive nearly through at these marks. 

1 1 . Put glue on narrow side and nail each corner together qnickly. 

ll>. Sink nails, smooth sides with plane and sandpaper, take off sharp 
corneis with sandpaper. 

lo. Prepare top 12^ x 12^ inches. 

14. Find centre, construct qnarterfoil, and bore with 1-inch centi'e bit. 
To avoid splitting l)ore last hole so that lip and cntter of bit re- 
volve in the direction of the grain. 

IT). Pound narrow faces witli plane abont | inch. 

1(). Smooth with plane and sandpaper. 

17. Fit top on sides and fasten with 1^-inch screws through cleats. 

18. Stain witli walnut water stain. When dry, sandpaper lightly, 

polish with wax, and brush and give it a coat of shellac. 

In addition to the articles described, a number of simple and useful 
objects may be designed by teachers and pupils. 



64 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



STAINING AND POLISHING 

Generally it is best to keep the natural color of the wood, especially 
when the color and the grain have a i^leasing appearance. 

Some sinii^le stain may be applied on snch plain objects as wonld 
warrant it, and should be such as not to cover uj) the grain of the wood 
like paint. Walnut water stain is most satisfactory. It gives to the 
wood a dark brown color. If not dark enough, another coat should be 
applied after the first is dry. If too dark, water should be added. If a 
green color is wanted, a very small amount of green crystal aniline may 
be added to the water stain. The mixture, however, should first be 
tried on a waste piece of wood in order to ascertain if the color is right. 

A simple method of i^olishing may be employed with or without pre- 
vious staining by applying raw linseed oil and sandpapering lightly 
until dry. Then rub with soft shavings or cloth. 

Another simple method of polishing is to apply ''Butchers' Floor 
Wax " with a piece of cloth, brushing it with a stiff, clean brush as you 
would polish shoes. Similar wax may be made by mixing beeswax and 
turpentine to the consistency of soft clay. A coat of thin shellac, 
quickly and evenly applied with a brush, will make the finish more dur- 
able. 



[65 



■WHITTLING 




[67] 



WHITTLING 

In the Elementary Sloyd described in the lirst i)art of this book, 
whittling is not practised. As a general rule, children under twelve 
years of age have not sufficient strength or control of the hand to use 
the knife correctly. Whittling is recommended only when it is not i:>os- 
sible to have the Elementary Sloyd, which requires a special room fitted 
up with benches and a variety of tools. Such an outfit is more effective 
educationally, but economically it is more expensive. Whittling can be 
done in the regular schoolroom by the regular teacher and with a com- 
paratively inexpensive outfit. 

By a skilful, experienced, and tactful teacher a whole class of the 
usual size in the public schools may be instructed simultaneously, but as 
in any work of motor training, or whenever the hands are employed to 
give expression to thought, the difference in individuals reveals itself 
so plainly that it is evident that the best educational results can be ob- 
tained only when free sco^^e is given to individual abilities. Conse- 
quently, the number of children in the class should be limited. Drill, 
mass instruction, and various means of keeping children together may 
be employed and some fairly good visible results obtained, but in nine 
cases out of ten the educational effect on the child is very little, and in 
some cases more injurious than helpful. Hence, it is important that in 
this work a regular class be divided whenever it is possible. 

The children should be taught to make sketches and working draw- 
ings of the simple models and should also learn to read printed drawings 
or such as are made by some one else. 

Ihe model and the drawing should at first be presented together by 
the teacher, and enlarged blackboard drawings may be made for the 
whole class to read. The aim of drawing is to give the pupil a correct 
mental picture ot what he is expected to make, consequently it should 
always precede manual work. 



JFJLEMENTABY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 

The knife is the least niecliiiincal and tlie most familiar of tools, and 
if cori'ectly used teaches the pupil to think before he acts, because of 
its simultaneous demand upon the mind and the muscles of the arm, 
wrist, hand, and fingers. 

The knife, however, is only one among the half hundred cutting tools 
used in sloyd. The value of Whittling alone as a means of education 
niay not be very great, but it is believed that it may supply an educa- 
tional need when practised uifder the following conditions: 

1. The child should have sufficient strength to handle the knife cor- 
rectly. 

2. The w^hittling should be taught preferably by the regular teacher, 
who must be possessed of sufficient technical skill. 

3. The position of the body and the movements used in the various 
exercises must be such as not to retard physical growth. 

4. The work should as much as possible be done in erect standing 
position and the material should be large enough to permit freedom of 
movement. 

5. The exercises should be carefully graded from the easy to the dif- 
ficult and should be applied on objects useful to the worker and of artis- 
tic merit. 

6. The knife should be of correct size and construction. 

7. Wood suitable to the objects should be carefully selected and 
properly prepared. 

GENEEAL DIEECTI0:NS 

1. With the point of tiie knite draw and cut in a good sitting posi 
tion; but whittle, use the sandpaper, bore, etc., in an easy, correct 
standing i^osition. 

2. Always hold the rule on the edge in measuring, marking, and 
testing for dimensions, and place it tiat on material when drawing lines. 



L ^u J 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 

3. Keep lead pencils sharp. Adjust the point of pencil to the same 
length as the point of the compass. In drawing arcs and circles hold 
compasses at the top between thumb and forefinger and keep needle 
point as nearly iierx)endiciilar to the surface as possible. 

4. In squaring lines and testing, hold beam of the try s([uare close to 
the true face. AVhittled surfaces which are less than one-quarter of an 
inch should not be tested by the try square. 

5. Use the eyes to test straightness, squareness, and symmetry of 
work before applying any other testing instruments. 

G. Grasp the knife with the right hand, if right-handed, with the 
thumb bound over the fingers as in clenched fist. 

7. Hold the wood at the end nearest you. 

8. Eest forearm against body and cut from you and downward. 

9. Do not cut from the very end, but start first beyond the hand, and 
turn the wood to finish. 

10. Tiy to use the whole length ot the blade by drawing it through 
the wood as you cut. Do not scrape. 

11. If you have a broad face to cut, take off the edges first. 

12. J^ever cut clear across an end or the fibres, but always from the 
sides toward the middle. 

13. Do not use sandj)aper before the model is as well finished as pos- 
sible with the knife. Eemove pencil marks with an eraser. 

11. Stretch sandpaper over a block with the fingers when sandi^aper- 
ing flat surfaces. Kemember that the purpose of using sandpaper is 
merely to make the object clean and smooth and not to reduce dimen- 
sions. 



[71] 



ELEMENTAEY SLOYD AND M'RITTLING 
WORKING DIRECTIONS FOR WHITTLING 

r-U*- 




Fig. 53. 

1. -PLANT LABEL 

Basswood. ^\. inch. 

DIRECTIONS 
Wood sawed off 7| and split to 1^ inches. 

1, Draw a sti-aight line near and parallel to one split edge and whittle 

to it. 

2. Mark width at each end, connect points by a line, and whittle to it. 
o. Construct Y)omt according to drawing and wliittle. 

4. Measure length. Square line across and whittle from corners toward 

centre. 

5. Sandpaper with block, narrow faces first, then broad faces. 



[7^2] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




2.- 



Fig. 54. 

PENCIL SHARPENER 



Whitewood. 



iuch. 



DIRECTIOXS 

Wood sawed off and split 6^ x If inches. 

1. See 1 and 2 in Model Xo. 1. 

2. Square line across near one end and whittle to it. 

3. Measure length and draw line and whittle. 

4. See 4 in Model IS'o. 1. 

5. See 5 in Model Ko. 1. 

6. Mark out on the back of sandpaper a piece the proper size and cut 

with a knife kept for the purpose, 

7. Apply a thin coat of Le Page's Liquid Glue to back of sandpaper 

and press it tirmly upon the wood. 



[73 J 



ELEMENTABY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



r 


^ ^ 


" 


1 

• 


f 

W 


-1^ 




L— »i:--J 





Fig. 55, 

3.-KEY TAG 

Bcisswood. ~{\ iucli. 

DIEECTIOXS 
Wood i^repared 4^ x If inches. 

1. See 1 and 2, Model 1. 

2. Locate point and draw arc with compass. Whittle to line. 

3. Bore hole at centre with gimlet bit, taking care to keep the bit per- 

pendicular. When centre point appears, turn wood and finish. 

4. See 4 in Model Xo. 1. 

5. See 5 in Model No. 1. 



[74] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




-MATCH SCRATCHER 

Wliitewood. ^ inch. 

DIEEOTIOXS 

Wood prepared 6 J x 2 J inches. 

1. See 1 and 2, Model No. 1. 

2. Draw centre line. 

3. Locate j)oiuts for centres of semicircles at each end, and square lines 

across at these points. 

4. Draw semicircles. 

5. Cut square shoulders by notching. Finish to semicircles, taking 

care to whittle with the grain. 

6. Bore hole with fine brad awl at the centres. 

7. See 5 in Model Xo. 1. 

8. See 6 and 7 in Model No. 2. 



75] 



ELMMENTABY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 




5.- 



Fig, 57. 

-STAND FOR PAPER FILE 

Wliitewood. i inch. 



DIEECTIONS 
Wood prepared ij x 3} inches. 

1. Find centre of wood and draw straight line with the grain. 

2. Draw a circle of 2 -inch radius. 

3. Construct hexagon, beginning at the intersection of the centre line. 

4. Whittle the two sides running parallel to the grain first, then the 

others. 

5. Draw and cut a bevel of ^ inch on the side free from pencil marks 

and make it round by cutting off sharp edges. 

C. See 5 in Model No. 1. 

7. For the file use a steel wire brad 4 inches in length No. 14. Sharpen 
point on the oil stone and drive it through from the under side 
at centre. 



[76 



ICLEMKyTARY fiLOil) AM) WniTTLJXG 




6.-TAG 

AVliitcwood. I, inch. 

DIRECTIOXS 

Wood i)repared 4^x If iuclies. 

1. See 1 ill Model Xo. ."). 

2. Locate points for arcs and draw cii'cles. 

3. Draw straight lines through tangents. 

4. Whittle to straight line first and then to arcs. 

5. See 5 in Model Xo. 1. 



[77 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLTNG 




7.-THREAD WINDER 

Basswood. yV inch. 

DIEECTIONS 
Wood prepared 3f x 2^ inches. 

1. See 1 and 2 in Model No. 1. 

2. Square line across near one end and whittle to it, 

3. Measure length, square line, and whittle. 

4. Measure and draw two centre lines, dividing width and length. 

5. Mark points for corners. 

6. Locate centres for arcs with compasses from these points. 

7. Draw arcs and whittle. 

8. Sandpaper curves by hand, and straight faces with block. 



[78] 



ELEMEXTAliY SLOYD AA^D WHITTLINO 




8.-MAT 

Whitewood. ^ inch. 

DIEECTIOXS 
Wood prepared about 4x4 inches. 

1. Draw one diagonal. Erect perpendicular at centre. 

2. Find centre for quarterfoil and construct semicircles according to 

drawing. 

3. Whittle to line, noting carefully the direction of the grain. 

4. See 5 in Model No. 1. 



L79J 



ELEMEXTAEY SLOYD AXD }fHITTLING 




Fig. 01. 

9.-KEY BOARD 

Wliitcwood. YfT inch. 

DIRECTIONS 
Prepare wood 4f x 3^ inches. 

1. Make the piece 3 inches wide. 

2. Draw a centre line and construct shiekl according to drawing. 

3. See 3 in Model Xo. S. 

4. Bore hole and mark i:)laces for three hooks. 

5. Sandpaper. 
G. Insert liooks. 



[80J 



ELEMENTARY 8L0TD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 62. 

lO.-PICTURE FRAME 

Basswood. \ inch, 

DIEECTIONS 
Size of frame may be decided by pupil with the teacher's approval. 

1. Cut two sides and one end square. 

2. Draw centre line and construct according to drawing. 

3. Place wood firmly on a cutting-board, and with point of knife score 

and notch lines across the interior about I inch inside of line until 
the knife point is through the wood. Cut and score carefully, in a 
similar manner, the other two sides. Whittle the interior to line. 

4. Whittle outer curved end. 

5. Sandpaper. 

6. The frame may be stained with walnut water stain, and waxed and 

brushed on the front and narrow faces. 

7. Cut cardboard for the back j inch wider and | inch longer than open- 

ing. Cut strips of cardboard \ inch wide and glue on three sides 
of the back of cardboard, and, when dry, glue onto frame, making a 
pocket for the i^icture. 



81] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



^ ^ fr- r'Tl 



Fig. 63. 

11. -MOP HANDLE 

White Pine, l iucli. 

DIRECTIONS 

Straight-grained wood should be selected about 11 inches long and split 

about I inch wide. 

1. See 1 and 2, Model No. 1. Whittle with long, steady strokes. 

2. Whittle edges at both ends until octagonal. This will serve as a 

guide in cutting the rest of the stick. 

3. Cut the next set of corners, making it sixteen-sided, and then cylin- 

drical. 

4. Finish one end. Mark and notch around this end according to 

drawing. 

5. Cut length and I'ound the end ^ inch, taking care to keep intersection 

sharj). 

6. Sandpaper by hand. 



ELEMEXTARY SLOXD ANT) WHITTLING 



V 



at 



V 



zB 



Fig. ti4. 

12.-DOOR BUTTON 

Whitewood. | inch. 

DIEECTIONS 
Prepare wood 5^x1^ inches. 

1. Draw lines and whittle two sides straight and square. 

2. Mark and draw oblique lines for under part and whittle. 

3. Draw a centre line and arcs at both ends and bore hole from both 

sides. 

4. Whittle curved ends. 

5. Sandpaper. 

(This button may be used for a door which is flush with the casing. ) 



83 



ELEMENTARY SLOTD AND WHITTLING 



W. 



—7 



1 



/ 



■^\1 



w. 



Fig. 65. 

13.-DOOR BUTTON 

White Pine, t incli. 

directio:n^s 

Prepare wood 4^x 1| inches. 

1. See 1 in Model No. 12. 

2. Construct on the two narrow sides according to draiwing. 

3. Draw centre line and arcs. Draw on both sides at thick end. 

4. Xotch and whittle the thin part of button. 

5. Whittle the curved ends and bore hole from both sides. 

6. Make the under part of thin end a little curved to avoid friction (see 

cross section). 

7. Sandpaper. 

(This button may be used for a door with a moulding. ) 



84 



ELEMENTABY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 66. 

14.-BAT FOR TIP CAT 

Wliitcwood. i, inch. 

DIEECTIONS 
Prepare wood 16^ X If inches. 

1. Whittle wood straight and square, making width according to 

drawing. 

2. Construct handle and whittle. 

3. Measure and cut length. 

4. Draw arc at corners and whittle. 

5. Bound edges of handle according to drawing. 

6. Sandpaper. 



[85: 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 67. 

15.-TIP CAT 

White Pine. 1 inch. 

DIEECTIOXS 

Prepare wood 4^x 1^ inches. 

1. See 1, Model 14. 

2. Cut one end square, measure length, square line, and cut. 

3. Measure and square lines around for i:)ointed ends. 

4. Measure and draw J inch square at centre on each end. 

5. Draw oblique lines for j)oints on two oi^posite sides and whittle. 

6. Draw and whittle the other sides in a similar manner. 

7. Whittle middle part octagonal. 
S. Whittle pointed ends octagonal. 
9. Sandpaper with block. 



86 



ELEMENTAUY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



'-^^ 



5~ \S 



Fig. 68. 

16.-PEN-HOLDER 

Red Cedar. .V inch. 

DIEECTIOXS 
Prepare wood 7| x J inch. 

1. See 1 in Model Xo. 14. 

2. Draw diagonals at one end and bore hole with g^-inch drill bit. 

3. Whittle peg and insert before cutting right length. Try if a pen 

can be easily inserted. 

4. Measure and draw oblique lines on one side and whittle. 

5. Proceed in a similar way on the other side. 

6. Whittle edges, making it octagonal. 

7. Whittle next set of edges, making it round. 

8. Whittle thick end curved. Measure length and cut. 

9. Sandpaper. 



87] 



ELEMENTARY 8L0YD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 69. 

I7.-LETTER OPENER 

Sweet Gum. | inch. 

DIEEC^TIONS 
Prepare wood 8 x f incb. 

1. See 1, Model No. 14. 

2. Mark length of handle and square line around. 

3. Draw centre lines on the two opposite planed faces. 

4. Draw lines for thickness of blade on each side of centre line. 

5. Whittle thickness of blade flat. 
(). Whittle handle octagonal. 

7. Whittle blade curved to centre lines (see cross section). 

8. Cut the curved end of handle. 

9. Measure length, draw point of blade, and whittle. 

10. Sandpaper octagonal handle with block, blade and ends by hand. 

See that blade is sharp enough to cut paper. 



ELEMENTARY 8L0TD AND WHITTLING 



m~ 




U^^ 



Fig. 70. 

18.-LINE CLEAT 

Birch, f iuch. 

dieectio:n^s 

Prepare wood 4jx 1 inch. 

1. See 1 in Model No. 14. 

2. Measure length and tind middle, square lines around at these marks. 

Draw centre line on top. 

3. Construct side view according to diawing. 

4. Cut to these lines, flat. 

5. Draw semicircles on top and aics at bottom. 

6. Cut semicircles and curved under part. 

7. Bore holes. 

Ii[OTE: A variation in shapes and sizes of tins cleat may be made. The 
long sides and top may be curved, making it narrower at ends and 
more beautiful. The cleat maybe used for boats, flag-pole lines, 
or clothes-line. It is considered better than those made of metal. 



[89 



ELEMENTARY SLOYB AN1> WHITTLING 




■»t 



ri-1 



]^^ 



19.-CLAY MODELING TOOL 

Maple, y^e iucli. (Straight-grained.) 

DIEEOTIONS 
Prepare wood 6| x | inch. 

1. See 1 in Model 14. 

2. Mark and cut the required length. 

3. Make construction comi^lete on one side according to drawing. 

4. Whittle to lines. 

5. Model the blade to a sharp edge and round the corners of handle. 

6. Cut notches on back of blade, and point the four sides on end of 

handle. 

7. Sandpaper, making the knife edge strong and durable. 



90] 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 




Fig. 72. 

20.-PAPER KNIFE 

Maple. fV i^ch. (Stmiglit-graiued.) 

DIRECTIONS 
Prepaie wood lljxlj inclies. 

1. See 1, Model :N"o. 14. 

2. Consti'iict knife on one side according to drawing. 

3. Wliittle to lines. 

4. Draw centre lines on narrow faces of blade. 

5. Wliittle blade cnrved (see cross section). 

6. Sandpaper seniicircnlar cnts by i)iitting sandpaper aronnd the lead 

pencil, and the rest with block. 



[91] 



ELEMENTABY SLOYD AND WHlTTLIXd 



WHITTLING OUTFIT 




Fig. 73. 

DESK TOP FOR WHITTLING COURSE 

Kcgular size, 9 x 15 iuclics. 



[92] 



ELEMENTARY 8IMYD AND WHITTLING 




Fill-. 74. 



BOX FOR WHITTLING OUTFIT 

Tliis box is (lt\sioiied for ;i class of twenty in Whittlino- Coui-se. Con- 
tains twenty of eaeh — Lead Pencils Xo. :> ; Rnles, one foot; Sloyd 
Knives, P>-ineh blade; Xew Pencil Compasses, Tiy Squares 4-inch, 
Sandpaper Blocks. Price, $15. 



[U3J 



ELEMENTARY SLOYD AND WHITTLING 



CHEST CONTAINING TEACHEES' TOOLS AND SUPPLIES AS 

FOLLOWS: 

Cross-cut Saw, 22-inch ; Try Square, 8-inch ; Hatchet No. 1, Clamp 
Vise ; Bit Brace, 2 drill bits, with bit points 3^2^ inch ; 6 Auger-bit Gim- 
lets, |-inch; India Oil Stone, Oil Can, 2 Honing Straps, 2 pounds Cotton 
Waste, 2 quires Sandpai)er No. and No. 1. 



AMOUNT OF WOOD FOE THE FIEST TEN MODELS FOE 

TWENTY PUPILS. 

The wood should be of best quality, straight-grain, kiln-dried, and 
planed. 

7 square feet ^-inch Whitewood, approximate width 6 inches. 



5 


a 


u 


~h- 


ii 


a 


a 


a 


5 


a 


3 


u 


u 


\- 


a 


a 


'' 


u 


8 


a 


5 


a 


ii. 


i- 


ii 


Basswood 


a 


a 


C 


a 


5 


u 


u 


iV 


a 


a 


a 


a 


G 


a 



If the teacher has no facilities for cutting up the wood, i:)ieces cut to 
the api^roximate length and width may be ordered. State kind and 
thickness as well as number of pieces needed of each kind. 



[94] 



ILLUSTRATION OF SPONTANEOUS 
CREATIONS 



ELEMENTARY SLOYI) AND KHlTTLINii 



XAMES OF ()BJE("rS IX Fid. 75 

( HILDEEX 



AS (JIVEX HV THE 



1. 


Chain (sliowiiiji- 


working- 


22. 


Pow-boat. 




method). 




28. 


Clock. 


2. 


Chain (complete). 




24. 


Puz/le (made from one ])i<'ce). 


o 


Dagj^er. 




25. 


Honse Avith attic. 


4. 


Sword. 




2(). 


Cuban sword. 


5. 


Wheelbarrow. 


# 


'>" 


The pig that swims in tlu^ sea. 


G. 


Pistol. 




28. 


Camel. 




Eyeglasses. 




29. 


J)oll. 


8. 


Pencil-box. 




30. 


Pistol. 


9. 


Horse's head. 




81. 


Cata])nlt. 


10. 


Eazor. 




32. 


Donble-runner. 


11. 


Hatchet. 




88. 


Sled. 


12. 


Xew A^ork dnde. 




84. 


Maijiiower. 


18. 


Kocking-chair. 




85. 


Fulton's boat. 


U. 


-The Old Oaken Bucket." 


8(). 


Steamboat. 


15. 


Rolling-pin. 




t> i \ 


and o^. Yoke of oxen with sled 


1(). 


Kevolvei'. 




89. 


House (made by Thomas Stiing 


17. 


Laddei'. 






ei', deaf, dumb, and blind). 


18. 


Shovel. 




40. 


Saw-horse. 


19. 


P,at and ball. 




41. 


Sled. 


20. 


Spade (for gi'easing 


: axles). 


12. 


Car])enter's bench. 


21. 


Canoe. 




48. 


Lumber wagon. 



This collection of objects, made without supervision or direction on 
the part of the teacher, is of special value to those interested in child 
study. It is suggestive in many ways. The child's imagination, inter- 
est, and creative instinct are manifested in these bits of wood, and those 
who are planning courses of work may '' catch some hints " from such pro- 
ductions. 



[9dJ 




Fig. 75.— Sponl-.uic'ous Creations in Wood by C'liildreu iindor 
Twehe Yeais of Age. 



97 



S£P 21 IMC 



Iliil 



f 



iiii 



m 



■ ■■■■■■ 

iiiiiffl^^^^^^^^^ LIBRARY OF CON 



ii ! I i lip iH^^^^^^^^^^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





